Everyday Mending · piece Nº 23 · 54 min

Patch a worn trouser knee with a hemmed patch

Close and reinforce a worn or thin trouser knee with a hemmed patch — the strongest of the hand patches, set on the wrong side so every raw edge is enclosed. You cut the patch on grain an inch larger than the worn place and hem it down, then cut away the worn cloth and hem the opening, so the mend holds by two squares of stitching.

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The seam · 9 steps

Step 1

STEP 1/9

Cut the patch from the same cloth as the trousers, washed first if the trousers have been washed so it will not shrink or show dark. Cut it square or oblong along a thread of the weave, 2.5 cm (1 in) larger than the worn place on every side. This hemmed patch suits firm woven cotton, denim, or twill; soft flannel and other soft woolens are patched a different way, since a turned-in edge there makes a hard, bulky fold.

Photo: Cut the patch from the same cloth as the trousers, washed first if the trousers have been washed so it will not shrink or show dark.

Step 2

STEP 2/9

Turn each of the four edges of the patch 6 mm (1/4 in) over toward its right side, and crease each fold along a thread. Keep the folds even, since these hidden folds set the finished size of the patch.

Photo: Turn each of the four edges of the patch 6 mm (1/4 in) over toward its right side, and crease each fold along a thread.

Step 3

STEP 3/9

Lay the patch on the wrong side of the trouser knee, its right side against the cloth and centered over the worn place, so the folds face outward and lie hidden between patch and trousers. Match its lengthwise threads to the lengthwise threads of the leg, and line up any stripe or check. Pin it there — a patch set off the grain pulls and puckers in the wash.

Photo: Lay the patch on the wrong side of the trouser knee, its right side against the cloth and centered over the worn place, so the folds face outward and lie hidde…

Step 4

STEP 4/9

Baste the patch down with a line through the middle each way and a line around the edges, running the basting along a thread. Basting holds the layers still so they cannot shift while you hem.

Photo: Baste the patch down with a line through the middle each way and a line around the edges, running the basting along a thread.

Step 5

STEP 5/9

Working on the wrong side, hem the folded edge of the patch to the trousers all around with fine, close hemming stitches. Take them small enough that on the right side they show only as dots.

Photo: Working on the wrong side, hem the folded edge of the patch to the trousers all around with fine, close hemming stitches.

Step 6

STEP 6/9

Turn the trousers to the right side. Cut away the worn cloth, trimming it back to a square 6 mm (1/4 in) inside the line of hemming and cutting along a thread; the right side of the patch now shows in the opening. Cut no further than this line — an over-cut leaves too little cloth to turn under.

Photo: Turn the trousers to the right side.

Step 7

STEP 7/9

Clip diagonally into each corner of the opening a scant 6 mm (1/4 in) so the raw edges can be turned under. Stop the clip short of the hemming, not into it.

Photo: Clip diagonally into each corner of the opening a scant 6 mm (1/4 in) so the raw edges can be turned under.

Step 8

STEP 8/9

Turn the raw edges of the opening under toward the patch and crease them. Hem the fold down onto the patch with fine stitches, folding each corner square.

Photo: Turn the raw edges of the opening under toward the patch and crease them.

Step 9

STEP 9/9

Draw out the bastings and press the mend on the wrong side. The knee now holds by two squares of hemming — one at the patch's own edge, one at the edge of the opening — so a strain on any side is carried by both.

Photo: Draw out the bastings and press the mend on the wrong side.